Guide to Watch Movements and Maintenance
Behind every watch face beats its true heart — the movement. Below, we’ll walk you through the three main types of watch movements — manual, automatic, and Quartz — with a clear-eyed look at their strengths, drawbacks, servicing needs, and what owners should realistically expect. By the end, you won’t just know how your watch ticks — you’ll know how to keep it ticking for years to come.
What Is a Watch Movement?
In simple terms, the movement is the engine of your watch — the mechanism that drives the hands, powers complications like a date or chronograph, moonphases, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons.
A movement is made up of dozens (sometimes hundreds) of tiny parts working together in perfect synchronisation. At its core, you’ll find:
A power source – a mainspring in mechanical watches, or a battery in Quartz.
A gear train – wheels and pinions that transfer energy.
A regulating organ – the balance wheel in mechanicals, or a quartz crystal that vibrates when powered.
A display mechanism – hands, or sometimes digital readouts.
The type of movement your watch has affects:
Accuracy – Quartz can keep time to within seconds a month, while mechanicals usually run within seconds a day.
Servicing needs – mechanical movements need regular strip-downs and lubrication; Quartz requires batteries and seals.
Value and collectability – mechanical and automatic movements often carry heritage and higher long-term value, while Quartz tends to be more affordable and practical.
Mechanical (Hand-Wound) Watch Movements
Mechanical hand-wound movements are the oldest watch engines — prized for their heritage and craftsmanship. In the luxury world, they’re symbols of status and refinement. Collectors treasure the artistry: hundreds of hand-finished components working in harmony, with no battery in sight. And for many, they’re also investments. Not every model rises, but coveted pieces from Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet often do — delivering both emotional satisfaction and financial upside.
How Does a Hand-Wound Mechanical Watch Work?
When it comes to how a mechanical watch works, the principle is simple yet ingenious. In simple terms, a coiled mainspring stores energy as you wind it, then gradually releases that power through the gear train. The escapement — a lever and pallet system — meters out the energy in precise steps, while the balance wheel, the watch’s “heartbeat”, oscillates back and forth to regulate it. Together, they drive the hands steadily across the dial, turning stored tension into the passage of time.
Pros and Cons of Hand-Wound Watches
Pros:
Pure horological tradition — no batteries, just gears, springs, and centuries of watchmaking craft.
Slimmer profiles — without a rotor, hand-wound watches can be elegantly thin, ideal for dress pieces.
The daily ritual — winding connects you to the mechanism; many collectors see it as a meditative moment, a reminder that time is powered by your own hand.
Longevity — with proper watch care, these movements can outlast generations, becoming true heirlooms.
Cons:
Frequent winding — most offer a 36–48 hour power reserve, so they need attention every day or two.
Vulnerability — mechanical parts are more sensitive to shocks, dust, and magnetism, which can affect accuracy.
Maintenance cost — servicing requires skilled labour and specialist tools, often pricier than Quartz and sometimes more than automatics.
How Often Should You Service a Manual Watch?
Manual watches need servicing every 2–4 years. Over time, oils dry out, friction builds, and wear on pivots and jewels accelerates if left unchecked, which can cause a mechanical watch to stop working. Neglect can turn a simple lubrication job into a complete overhaul — with costly parts replacements. Vintage watches are especially vulnerable: even seemingly routine work such as replacing original dials or hands, or over-polishing a case, can permanently diminish both character and value — as explored in our guide to vintage watch repair and restoration.
Common Mistake: Forgetting to wind consistently. Letting the mainspring fully unwind won’t harm the watch, but if left idle for years, oils congeal and parts seize.
Watch Care: Wind your watch at the same time each day, and always remove it from your wrist before winding – it avoids putting sideways pressure on the crown stem.
Automatic (Self-Winding) Watch Movements
People love automatic watches for their balance of mechanical romance and convenience. Unlike hand-wounds, they don’t demand daily winding. For collectors, it’s the perfect blend: pure horology, made practical.
At the luxury end, they’re status symbols, often carrying complications like GMTs, chronographs, or moonphases. And many view them as investments, with icons from Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe holding or climbing in value.
How Do Automatic Watches Work? (Rotor & Power Reserve Explained)
Inside an automatic, you’ll find a small, semi-circular weight called a rotor. As you move your wrist, the rotor spins, winding the mainspring automatically. The stored energy drives the gear train, escapement, and balance wheel just like a hand-wound watch. Most modern automatics hold a power reserve of 40–70 hours, meaning they’ll keep running if you set them down for a day or two.
Pros and Cons of Automatic Watches
Pros:
Convenience: Automatics wind themselves as you wear them, making them practical for everyday use.
Heritage & feel: They’re still 100% mechanical, powered by gears and springs, with no batteries in sight.
Longevity: With proper watch servicing, automatics can run for decades or even generations.
Value: Favoured by collectors and enthusiasts; many luxury brands only produce automatics.
Cons:
Prone to Magnetism: Everyday sources that contain magnets ( laptops, phone cases, jewellery) can magnetise your watch’s components, leading to irregular and unreliable timekeeping.
Shock sensitivity: Although modern designs are robust, a hard knock or drop can still upset the balance wheel and compromise accuracy.
Storage quirks: If unworn for a few days, automatics stop, meaning complications such as the date, GMT, or moonphase need to be reset. Some owners use winders to keep them running, but even these need careful use to avoid excess wear.
Automatic Watch Service Intervals & Pressure Testing
Automatic watches typically need servicing every 3–5 years — sooner if worn daily in demanding conditions such as sports, diving, or dusty environments. A comprehensive automatic watch service is more than just a quick clean. The movement is completely stripped down, each component is ultrasonically cleaned, then reassembled with specialist oils applied to reduce friction and wear. Once rebuilt, the watch is regulated on a timing machine to restore accuracy.
For water-resistant watches, it’s wise to have a pressure test once a year. Over time, case seals and gaskets degrade, compromising resistance to moisture and dust, which could result in your watch's water resistance capabilities becoming compromised.
Watch Care Tip: Have your wristwatch pressure tested before a holiday — especially if you’ll be swimming, diving, or spending time in humid climates. For more advice, see our Luxury Watch Travel Checklist guide.
Pro Tip: If you rotate between several watches, let your automatic rest rather than leaving it wound 24/7 on a winder. It reduces unnecessary wear on the movement.
Quartz Watch Movements
Quartz watches changed the industry in the 1970s by delivering accuracy and affordability unmatched by mechanical designs.
For many, Quartz opened the door to luxury at an accessible price point. Brands like Seiko, TAG Heuer, and Cartier built iconic quartz models that are still collected today. And in the luxury space, some quartz watches — such as high-end Grand Seiko or Cartier Tank quartz models — carry serious prestige.
Ultimately, quartz appeals to those who want the look and feel of a fine timepiece without the rituals and costs of mechanical upkeep.
How Do Quartz Watches Work? (Crystal Frequency Explained)
A quartz movement is powered by a small battery that sends current through a quartz crystal. The crystal vibrates at a precise frequency (32,768 times per second), and a microcircuit converts those vibrations into a regular electrical pulse. That pulse drives a tiny stepper motor, which moves the gear train and seconds hand forward in one-second “ticks.”
Pros and Cons of Quartz Watches
Pros:
Incredibly accurate – often to within ±15 seconds per month.
Low maintenance – no winding needed.
Affordable to buy and service compared with mechanicals.
Slim designs are possible, as fewer moving parts are required.
Cons:
Lacks the romance and craftsmanship of mechanical watches.
Electronics and coils can eventually fail (typically after 10–20 years).
Battery changes, if done poorly, risk damaging seals or movements.
Quartz Servicing: Battery Replacement, Resealing & Pressure Test
When it comes to quartz watches, the most common repair you’ll ever face is a simple watch battery replacement. However, even this should be treated as a mini-service, not just a quick swap. At AMJ, that means:
Fitting a high-quality Swiss cell for long-lasting reliability.
Inspection and replacement of case gaskets — the precision-engineered rubber seals that maintain the integrity of the case against water and dust ingress.
Pressure testing of the case to verify that the watch meets its rated water-resistance specification under simulated depth conditions.
Common Watch Battery Swap Mistakes to Avoid
Corner-cutting: Shops that don’t reseal or pressure-test after a battery change.
Fake or low-grade parts: Generic batteries or gaskets that fail early.
False economy: Spending £10 less on a rushed battery swap can cost hundreds in water-damage repair later.
Pro Tip: Always ask for proof that your watch has passed a pressure test. A cheap high-street battery change might leave the case unsealed — and even a splash from hand-washing can fog the crystal or cause untold water damage to your watch's movement.
Watch Care Tip: Never leave a dead battery in your quartz watch — it can leak, corrode the movement beyond repair. Learn more in our guide on when it’s time to change your watch battery.
Conclusion: Keeping Time, Keeping Value
Whether a hand-wound manual, automatic, or Quartz, every movement has its own rhythm, quirks, and care needs. Mechanical watches offer heritage, craftsmanship, and emotional value — but demand regular servicing. Automatics add convenience while staying true to horological tradition, yet still need careful handling and periodic pressure testing. Quartz brings unbeatable accuracy and practicality, though even the humble battery change deserves professional attention.
The takeaway? A fine watch isn’t set-and-forget. With the proper care — winding rituals, timely servicing, annual pressure tests, or proper battery replacement — your watch will not only keep time, but also hold its value, safeguard its character, and outlast generations.
Think of maintenance as part of ownership, not an afterthought. It’s the difference between a watch that fades and one that becomes a legacy.
At AMJ Watch Repair, our stance is simple: preservation first, transparency always. Whether it’s a quartz needing a reseal, an automatic overdue for a complete overhaul, or a vintage wristwatch that is in need of museum-level care, we approach every job with the same commitment:
Clear written estimates – no surprises.
Genuine parts and full disclosure if alternatives are needed, especially for vintage models.
Old parts back in the bag, every time.
Pressure-test slips, timing results, and photo-logged intake.
A written 12-month warranty, so you’re never left exposed.
The movement may be the heart of your watch, but trust is the lifeblood of a robust watch repair service. We’ve built that trust with owners across the UK – from first-time owners who're nervous about their first service to collectors entrusting us with multi-generational heirlooms.
If you’d like to take the next step, contact our Hatton Garden watch repair shop, or why not come in and speak directly with our watchmakers?
A manual watch movement is a system of gears, springs and wheels that keeps track of time. The traditional mechanical movement is powered by a mainspring which is wound up by hand. This powers the balance wheel, which acts as an oscillator and regulates how quickly the other gears turn. These gears turn the hands of the watch dial, keeping accurate time in synchronisation with the rotations of the balance wheel.
Due to the intricate design elements of the manual watch movement and the superior level of craftsmanship, many high-end watch brands use manual watch movements, such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, TAG Heuer, Breitling and Audemars Piguet. Other popular mid-range brands also incorporate manual watch movements into their designs, including Seiko and Tissot.
